Something Old, Something New For Pesach by Evie Lieb


SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW FOR PESACH

From April 2009 Mosaic Law Scroll – Article © Evie Lieb

 

             Once again I’m offering a potpourri of recipes for the upcoming holiday. Try the herb syrup in anything from an appetizing fruit salad to a refreshing dessert. For a main course, the salmon and spinach provide a delicious mid-holiday dairy meal and the possibility of a dessert that allows the use of butter. The cauliflower is terrific as a side dish for meat or fish, and in addition it can be served with toothpicks as an unusual (and healthy!) hors d’oeuvre. For brunch, a snack or a parve dessert, try the banana streusel cake; moist with pieces of whole banana, it transcends ordinary spongecake. And finally Naomi’s almond cookies, a quick-to prepare parve treat, will prompt secret trips to the cookie jar any time of the day. Please note that all of these recipes use ingredients that are available kosher for Passover. Recipes for Passover powdered sugar and vanilla wine that may be used measure-for-measure as a vanilla extract replacement are at the end of the column.

 

MINT-INFUSED SYRUP

           

            In THE HERBFARM COOKBOOK chef Jerry Traunfeld shares countless ways to use fresh herbs to enliven recipes. Such syrups are delicious with fruit in many forms, as additions to drinks, and as moisteners for cakes. For Pesach, this syrup enlivens a fruit cup or a simple dish of sliced strawberries. Drizzle on some of this to give a new life to sponge cake.       About 1 Cup


1 C sugar

3/4  C water

6-8 4” sprigs of fresh mint

zest of 1/2 orange, lemon or lime, peeled in strips                   
with vegetable peeler (optional)

 

Combine the sugar and water in a 1-qt. saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. When sugar has completely dissolved, add the mint and zest, pushing them under the surface of the syrup with a spoon. Remove pan from heat immediately, cover and leave to steep for 30 minutes. Strain the syrup through a fine sieve, pressing down on the leaves, stems and zest to get every last drop. Cool and refrigerate in a covered bottle or jar for up to 3 months.

 Hint: For a delicious change from the expected, substitute 2 4” sprigs of rosemary for the mint and the seeds scraped from half a vanilla bean for the zest. You’ll be surprised at how rosemary marries deliciously with sweet elements.

 

ROASTED SALMON WITH SPINACH

This is my adaptation of a recipe contributed to Martha Stewart's website by Ruth Estfon of Palm Harbor, Florida.                                                                                       Serves 4


4 skinless or skin-on scaled salmon fillets (6 - 8 oz each)

Olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

10 oz fresh baby spinach

1/2 C feta, crumbled (2 oz)                                                          

1/3 cup toasted pine nuts

2 tsp fresh lemon juice

Preheat oven to 425˚ (400˚ convection). Oil a shallow baking pan or line it with foil and oil the foil to prevent fish from sticking. Place the fillets skin-side down in the pan, brush with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Roast the fish until done to your liking. For moist fish that is thoroughly cooked through, this should take about 11 or 12 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat 1 TBSP oil over medium heat. Add as much spinach as will fit; season with salt and pepper. Cook, tossing spinach with tongs and adding more to skillet as spinach wilts down. The whole process will only take a couple of minutes until all the spinach is tender, so gauge when to start so your salmon and spinach will be ready to serve together. Remove skillet from heat and drain off excess liquid. Toss in feta, pine nuts, and lemon juice. Serve salmon beside or on top of the sautéed spinach.

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER

            This idea came from a FINE COOKING magazine article by Ruth Lively. I have changed the temperature with the main result being quicker cooking. The proportions of oil and seasoning are really up to the cook. The great thing about this method is that your neighbors won’t know you are serving cauliflower!

 

Cauliflower florets cut from a head or precut ones from a bag (T.J.’s or Whole Foods) or
 grocery store bin (Safeway).

Olive oil

Salt

Paprika                                                           

Grated lemon zest and juice

 

            Cover a rimmed baking sheet with foil and spray with non-stick spray. Preheat oven to 400˚.

            Trim tough bottoms from floret stems and cut florets so that they are of similar size. Place in a large bowl, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and paprika. Toss to coat the florets evenly.

            Spread evenly on prepared baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes. Sprinkle with lemon zest and toss to expose other side of florets. Bake 10 minutes more, or until brown around the edges. Drizzle with lemon juice and serve.

 

BANANA SPONGECAKE
WITH CINNAMON STREUSEL

       

When this recipe by Marlene Sorosky Gray originally appeared in Gourmet in 1995, I made it with the help of our then toddler granddaughter, who was visiting from Boston. The cake easily passed the re-testing I recently gave it, but it wasn’t as much fun without my former sous-chef, who has grown up to be a very competent baker.

Streusel

            1/2 C firmly packed light brown sugar

            2/3 C matzah meal (not cake meal!)

            1 tsp cinnamon           

            1/4 C melted butter or margarine or vegetable oil

Place all ingredients in a bowl and mix with fingers or pastry blender to make a homogeneous mealy mixture.

Spongecake

            Oil or butter and matzah meal for baking pan           

6 eggs, separated (large or extra large)

            3/4 C sugar

            4 large ripe bananas

            2 tsp vanilla wine

            1/2 tsp salt

            1/2 C matzah meal (not cake meal)

            1/2 C potato starch

            1 tsp cider vinegar or lemon juice

 

Place rack in middle of oven and preheat to 325˚. Oil or grease a 9”x13”glass dish (about 2 qt capacity) and dust with matzah meal.

Process egg yolks and 1/2 C of the sugar in bowl of processor until pale yellow and slightly thickened. Chop two of the bananas into chunks and add to bowl along with vanilla wine, salt, matzah meal and potato starch; process until smooth. Transfer mixture to a big bowl,  thinly slice the remaining bananas and add them to the batter.

In a clean bowl beat the whites with the vinegar or lemon juice until they hold soft peaks. (The acid ingredients will help to keep the whites inflated during the rest of the baking process.)  Very slowly beat in the remaining 1/4 C sugar until the whites hold stiff peaks but are not dry. Fold about a fourth of the whites into the batter to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining meringue until no streaks of white remain.

Pour the batter into the prepared dish, smooth the top and distribute the streusel evenly over the top. Bake 30 to 35 minutes or until a tester inserted in center comes out clean. Cool the cake in the baking dish on a rack. When cool, cover tightly with foil and refrigerate or freeze. Serve cool or at room temperature.

                                                                        
 

NAOMI'S SWEET ALMOND WAFERS

This recipe was shared by my dear friend, expert baker and cookbook author Flo Braker, who got it from a generous friend. It wasn't originally meant for Passover, but if you use the homemade adaptations for powdered sugar and vanilla extract, it is perfect! The chocolate decoration is my own gilding of the lily and makes these cookies truly a festive addition to your holiday repertoire. (For non-Passover version, use 1/2 tsp vanilla and 1/2 tsp almond extract.)                                                                    Makes about 36

 
2 large egg whites (1/4 C liquid)
3/4 C powdered sugar (spoon into cup and sweep surface level)
1/8 tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla wine
3 C (10 1/2 oz) sliced almonds, blanched or natural
1 C chocolate chips or 6 oz bittersweet bar chocolate, chopped (optional)

 
Center rack in the oven and preheat to 350˚. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment. Place the egg whites in a large bowl. Add the powdered sugar, salt and with a whisk, stir (don't whip or beat) the ingredients just until sugar is incorporated. Stir in the vanilla wine. Add the almonds and toss with a silicone or rubber spatula until nuts are evenly coated.

Scoop mounded 1-TBSP clusters of mixture onto one of the prepared sheets, flattening slightly with tines of a fork so that cookies are at least 1/2" apart. (A good way to space the cookies is in staggered rows of 4-3-4-3-4.) Bake in preheated oven 13 to 15 minutes or until cookies are amber-gold and the undersides are no longer moist (test by gently lifting one with a small metal spatula or dinner knife). Remove cookie sheet to a rack and cool about 2 minutes; remove cookies from parchment to cool completely on another rack. Repeat for second sheet of wafers. Store cookies in an airtight container for up to a week, or freeze them for longer storage.

To glaze the wafers, melt the chocolate in a double boiler or in a metal bowl set in a skillet of gently simmering water. Stir until smooth. Use a small flat metal spatula to spread a generous layer of chocolate over the bottom of each cookie. Place glazed cookies upside down on a cookie sheet and refrigerate or freeze briefly until chocolate hardens. An alternative decoration can be achieved with a little less chocolate by drizzling the tops of the cookies with chocolate streaks. Chill right-side-up and store as above.

HANDY PASSOVER SUBSTITUTE INGREDIENTS

Regular vanilla extract isn’t kosher for Passover. Prepare vanilla wine, a fine substitute, by placing a couple of split vanilla beans in a bottle of sweet white Concord grape Passover wine.  Allow to sit for at least a few days. It will keep on the shelf literally for years.

Regular confectioners’ sugar is not kosher for Passover because it contains cornstarch, but you can make a good substitute by using a food processor or blender to process 1 cup of sugar with 1 tablespoon of potato starch until powdery. Passover confectioners’ sugar is sometimes available, but it is quite costly.

           

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